Breakthrough and breakdown.

On Friday morning,we had our weekly meeting with Tia.She was sporting a relaxed smile.But she wouldn't spill the beans till we had made her a coffee.Then she told us of an incredible breakthrough:the previous night she had attended a meeting called by the government department.Nothing was expected out of it,but you never know.It turned out that there was  money left in the annual budget of the department,that was available till the end of the financial year;any family in need could collect vouchers for a total of 3 separate food parcels (before March next year)and money for school clothes.Imagine what this will mean for many people without a certainty of food!
So we shall be running a taxi service for people to pick up their vouchers!Also,some of them wil need ferrying to the shop for school clothes.This applies,not only to the 87 families ''on the books'',but to whoever else in the township who needs help.Tia can hardly beleive it,it is unprecedented.At least over Xmas. everyone should be OK!
Also this week,we have to sort through donated clothing and prepare any clothes,unsuitable or unneccessary for our own orphans,for a sale we will hold at Florence's next Saturday.
Martijn and Marloes leave for the Netherlands on Saturday.They are planning a party for all 24 of the kids,Wednesday afternoon.They will cook Dutch pancakes,while we will bring fruit,savouries,cakes and cordials.Hopefully,we can arrange some music and games.
Another breakthrough this week has been with the vegetable garden.We cleared away all the rubbish at the back of the hedge-I have never seen so many cockroaches-and cut the hedge down.Actually,it isn't a hedge but a line of trees showing regrowth.Luckily.we got hold of a chainsaw and cut them down to soil level.But to dig them out would take a week of hard slog,I think.So,a machine looks to be a neccessity..I got a company down,to quote on the walling,conditional on us taking out the roots.I did not expect a cheap quote when they arrived in a latest model,BMW 4x4.How ridiculous  it appeared in the township.The price was just as ridiculous.But Tia announced on Friday  that the firm who built the wall around Florence's house  could do it in 2 weeks time and take out the roots,for a reasonable cost.With the money Martijn and Marloes has,and a donation I have been promised,we will have enough to go most of the way along the back border and put gates on for the vegetable area.Later,when we can afford to continue the wall right round,we will move these  gates to the front,for use as entry gates.It might sound a small thing,but for a family of orphans to feel secure,and have their own supply of fresh vegetables,with the interest this will engender in them,it constitutes an important step.
So it was in good spirits that I set off after the meeting,for an interesting weekend.Last week i drove to Steyterville,which is on one edge of the Baviaanskloof Wilderness.This weekend I wanted to enter the Reserve from the other side.Recently,UNESCO classified the area as a World Heritage Site.Apart from great natural beauty,there is a wealth of flora and fauna,much of it endemic.A narrow valley separates 2 mountain ranges.Black rhino,cape buffalo,leopard and many more can all be found here.
 I reserved dinner,bed and breakfast (R450 per night,about 30 pounds)at
the Baviaanskloof Lodge,at the entance to the most interesting part of the area,some 135 km. from here.At 12 noon,Martijn kindly transported my bike and I about 40 km.up the freeway to start my ride.Hills rolled out in front of me,a lively green colour,full of promise,leading to the dark mountains beyond.My backpack was weighing me down a bit,so after 20km. I was glad to to stop for a cold drink at a farm stall,a sort of roadside cafe that they do well here.The generally have a good product range and create a pioneer feel,blending traditional art and craftwork nicelyThe first small town was Hankey.Mainly black people milled around in what felt like a festive spirit.Friday is pay day,so that perhaps explains why.But it was on arrival at the next small place,Patensie,that I really started to enjoy it.Here the soil was rich,dark red,alluvial earth,irrigated by the Kouga River.Citrus orchards are organised into neat parcels,protected by lines of high trees.Other vegetables and tobacco are also grown.Here you find large enterprises,very well planned and clearly prospering.Some of the houses and gardens were eyecatching.Very generous borders had been left along the roadsides,where a variety of trees and bushes had been planted.Even along field edges,jacarandas were laden with full bloom,an intense lilac.Bouganvilleas abounded,shooting spurs skyward whilst arching their stems downwards to display their profusion of bloom.Permiscuous plumbago emraced everything around,then smothered it.The valley was narowing quite quickly now,the river curling round to join the road before entering the Wilderness side by side.The tarmac ended,a stone/dirt track continued on.Only 20km.to go.After a further 2 km.,at the same time as I glimpsed a fish eagle atop a rock in the river,I felt an increase in pressure bumping up through my seat....a flat tyre!Being well organised,i had no repair kit or pump.At the same moment,I noticed movement in the bush around me.Then I saw and heard the baboons,chattering and whooping with laughter,it seemed. Nothing for it but to start walking.My luck was in however, as quite soon a van stoppd for me.Brian,Jacky and her mother were coming from P.E. to camp the weekend in the Reserve.Although they were going to a campsite nearby,they insisted on driving me all the way to the lodge.Brian asked what I was doing in P.E.I explained about the orphans and how shocking I found it.His reply was that, for him,it was a case of ''That is how it is'',since he had been brought up with it.I was wondering whether to comment on how you can get desensitised to awful situations,when he carried on to mention that his sister ran an orphanage for 0-4 year olds.She never has more than 20 and always finds homes for them.This taught me a valuable lesson -never prejudge or underestimate.
''Brother'' or ''Man'' is frequently used in conversation here;Peter calls every black woman ''Mama'',out of respect;and there in the lodge,Norman,my host,always addressed his wife as ''Auntie''!.Anyway,I had arranged with Auntie to have my breakfast ready for 7.This allowed me to walk the short trail from the lodge up to a viewpoint,near a 3000 year old cycad (no misprint),to see the rising sun flood the valley with a blinding brightness and early warmth.After the descent,I sorted out my bike,had a good breakfast and was on my way soon after 8.My route would take me through the most exhilarating section of the Wilderness,comprising a long steep climb,followed by an equally long descent,no more than 25 km. all told.What I had not realised was how bad this track would be;it is enough to slow a 4x4 down to a wretched crawl.Even so early,the heat was insufferable.Going up the final climb to the plateau at the top of the pass,I had to walk the bike.My 3 small bottles of water were nearly finished and I could not see the Hikers Hut where I had been told there was a fountain.The thicket was disappearing to be replaced by fymbos and grass.Large proteas dazzled with their brilliance and complexity.Descending was horrendous.My brakes struggled to hold the bike and the track was truly a disaster.Further down,I met an oncoming vehicle that stopped and asked if I was OK.They gave me water and asked if I wanted a lift back.I was so concerned about getting back again that I accepted,even to putting my bike on top and climbing on the back.But clearly it was not going to work.As he said,I would be shaken off in the first 100 metres.I told him thanks,but decided to see it through.Further along,another 4x4 came up behind me.They also gave me water and said they would meet me at Rooihoep,my destination,it was not far away now.Not long later,a police van drew up.They also were heading for Rooihoep,and after that would be going back to Patensie.Would i like a lift back?Well....yes please!!!
What is at Rooihoep?A sweeping bend in the river,pure white sand beaches either side,still waters to swim in.By the time I had enjoyed a swim and climbed the bank,the police inspector and (lady)police constable had a barbecue almost ready,to which I was invited!Why try to be organised when things like this just happen?On the crawl back, in their van,I learnt quite a lot from this couple.Being brought up in the area,they knew the wildlife and where to look.We saw roebuck,bushbuck impala and hartebeeste.On the outward journey,I had only seen a kingfisher and a lizard!It was nearly 4.30 by the time they dropped me off.Only after they left did I realise I had left my helmet in the van.I got cleaned up,had 2 cups of tea,and then Auntie put Premiership football on the TV for me while I waited for supper.It was about 6pm when my police friends turned up with the helmet!They must have driven back to Patensie,after a tiring drive,seen my helmet and turned round to do a 90km.round trip,half of it dirt road,just to return my helmet.Unbelievable!!
As I had to be back on Sunday night,and I wanted to cycle all the way,I got Auntie to have breakfast ready for 5.15.These first few hours were gorgeous,cool and quiet.I soon got my first glimpse of the yellow oriole,and many other smaller birds,all attracted by the languid waters of the river.As I neared the end of the dirt track,just ahead of me,my friends,the baboons,were crosing the road.They were surprised.Nor did they laugh this time,as I bore down on them!
By 9,I was at Patensie,just in time to catch my police friends before they went on duty.I was able to give them a small present in person.
After that,I made good time and got home for 3.
Best wishes,
Eric.
Photos.
1 on the plateau,Baviaanskloof
2 by the river,Rooidhoep
3 at Florence's
4 cheeky but likeable neighbour at Forence's
5 Claire,teaching at Maureen's
6 almost halfway there,the Baviaanskloof mountains in the background

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